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Harness use:

  • Hang on to belt and leg loops and step thru.
  • Tighten buckles
    There are several buckle systems. Older ones require you to double the strap back thru the buckle after pulling it tight. Newer ones just require pulling tight
    See Examples at Mammut (mammut.ch/en/)
  • Black diamond harnesses have a loop on the side of the belt to put the loose end thru.
  • Make sure there are no twists
Harness tie-in:
  • Tie a figure 8 knot about 2 1/2 feet from the end of the rope.
  • Thread rope thru the ti-in loops on the harness waist belt and strap that joins the leg loops. *
    or if no loops, thread it behind the harness waist belt and strap that joins the leg loops.
    See the manufacturer's tie-in instructions for your harness.
  • Trace the end of rope back along the exact path of the figure eight.
  • Tie a keeper knot with the 6 to 10 inch tail that sprouts out of the knot away from your body to stop the figure eight follow-through from unraveling while climbing.
  • Perform a "hang test" by hanging from the rope; it should be comfortable.
    You should do this at home before going out the first time.
* An exception is the Aspiring Harness, which has a stitched-through belay loop creating a higher centre of balance and therefore a more stable hanging position. You only attach to the top loop not the leg loops.

Setting up an ATC for Belaying:

  1. Clip a locking carabiner through both the groin loop and the waist loops of your harness (the same loops you tie into).
  2. Take a loop (bight) of rope from the end which the climber is not tied into and pass it through one of the two slots in the ATC (both slots are identical).
  3. Clip both the wire cable on the ATC and the bight of rope into the locking carabiner, and screw the gate of the carabiner shut.
  4. For indoor climbing. Clip a second carabiner into your harness at the waist and groin loops on the side opposite your braking hand. Clip this carabiner into one of the pre-tied loops on the anchor ropes attached to the floor at a point which offers the least slack in the anchor rope. This prevents the belayer (you) from being pulled off the floor in the event the climber takes a fall (or if the climber weighs more than you do).

Munter Hitch:
A Munter Hitch is used as an emergency rappel / belay device.
It's advisable to use a pear-shaped locking carabiner, and try to avoid cross-loading it. The knot will "flip" as opposite strands of the rope are pulled, this is normal. To lock the knot, apply the braking hand by moving the slack line parrel with the loaded line. See pictures below:

Figure A: Here you're feeding out slack when belaying, or you're abseiling down. Figure B: To lock the Munter Hitch draw your brake hand up parallel with the load line. Figure C: The knot will correctly "flip" into this position as you take in slack when belaying.
See: Munter Hitch at chockstone.org and and at spadout.com
Links:
Climbing Gear
OA Guide to Belaying at the Climbing Wall (Princeton Outdoor Action)
How to Tie Into a Climbing Rope | eHow.com
How to Tie Your Own Climbing Harness | eHow.com
Mountaineering and Mountain Survival - Belay Techniques
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last updated 11 Nov 2009